I've been to London ... to visit the Queen

I experienced the highlight of our posting recently - we were invited to attend the Queen's Garden Party. I've discovered a new appreciation for Afternoon tea and tea in general since living here, so having tea at Buckingham Palace was like reaching Afternoon tea Meca.

Each year Her Majesty hosts 3 Garden Parties in the Spring which are held in the grounds of Buckingham Palace. Just receiving the invitation alone was exciting enough. To see a very posh, gold embossed invitation card addressed to us accompanied by complex series of security information for the day (what identification to bring to clear the security screening) what attire was considered appropriate and a list of what not to bring

Joined by another Australian family living in Kensington, we met on the High Street in our Spring finery and had a true London experience hailing a Black Cab and telling the driver to ‘take us to the Palace’  

After clearing the security at the main gate, we entered the gravel courtyard at the front of the Palace before being marshaled through the archway into the centre courtyard. After passing the palace and seeing it from the public viewing area outside many times before, it was surreal to actually be ‘on the inside’

We entered the Palace's ground floor state room and passed through before exiting outside to the Palace Garden (or in Australian parlance … ‘The Queen’s back yard’) The Garden was expansive and lined by  enormous white marquee tents set up for afternoon tea and surrounded by small table and chairs for guests. There were also two smaller marquees – the Royal enclosure and The Diplomatic enclosure to house the VIPs. In addition, there were two gazebos where two military bands were positioned and who in turn played music throughout the afternoon.

 

The highlight though was the opening strands of God Save the Queen which heralded the arrival of the Royal Hosts. The Queen, Prince Philip, The Prince of Wales and The Duchess of Cornwall, The Duchess of Cambridge and The Duke and Duchess of Kent attended the party. The Royal hosts were ushered through the crowd of 3000 guests and stopped enroute to the Royal Enclosure to greet guests.

It was surreal to see their faces so familiar from press reporting, up close and personal. After the formal arrival we shifted to the Main Marquee to sample tea, cucumber sandwiches, smoked salmon sandwiches and ham and seeded mustard sandwiches. Followed by tiny sweet treats such as mini chocolate ganache tarts adorned with tiny chocolate discs emblazoned with the Royal crown in gold paint. Mini strawberry and custard tarts and mini éclairs. It all looked, and tasted, amazing and it made for great people watching observing guests in their finest attire precariously balancing small cocktail plates with a tea cup and assortment of tea sandwiches and cakes without spilling crumbs or causing a scene.

Among the guests were members of the English Parliament, members of the Olympic and Paralympic Team G.B (including the English wheelchair rugby team who we were lucky enough to talk to) and other members from the diplomatic community including a range of military officers all kitted out in their formal uniforms. The crowd included the young in the most chic dresses and fascinators through to older guests whose outfits and fine hats revealed their obvious wealth.

After tea the Queen and her party returned inside the Palace again to the strains of the anthem and we were able to see both Her Majesty and Prince Philip walk past at only 1 metre distance. A short walk through the incredible gardens of the Palace and it was time to leave. We left on foot through Green Park still buzzing from the experience.

London is a city that offers the widest variety of foodie experiences but I think tea with the Queen is going to be hard to beat.

Anzac Day .... food and national identity

I live in a part of the world where national borders are close, but each country's food culture is really unique. Germany and France for example lie side by side, but their national dishes couldn't be further apart ... (bratwurst and frogs?) Its not quite as extreme as that, but the diversity of national foods in Europe really fascinates me.

I come from a country which is geographically isolated and yet I struggle to think of a dish that can distinctly (and uniquely) be considered a classic Australian dish. Food in Australia is so diverse - originally based on the cuisine of our British forefathers, over the years our diverse multicultural population has heavily influenced the Australian palette and we've borrowed ingredients and techniques from our migrant population to create our own fusion interpretations.

Trying to gain consensus on the question ‘what is Australia’s national dish’ always results in hearty debate:

Its seems that the winners (in no particular order) are :

- meat pie
- pavlova
- seafood on the bbq
- sausage in bread
- lamingtons
- roast lamb
... and vegemite

To me, the one thing that does seem authentically Australian, albeit shared with our cousins from across the Tasman Sea, is Anzac Biscuits.

Anzacs were created during World War 1, when the wives, mothers and girlfriends of the Australian soldiers were concerned about the quality of the food being supplied to the men fighting. A recipe was developed (designed to be nutritionally rich) containing: rolled oats, sugar, plain flour, coconut, butter, golden syrup or treacle, bi-carbonate of soda and boiling water. These ingredients were chosen because they would last the long journey by sea to the soldiers without spoiling - notable in the recipe was the absence of eggs which were in short supply during the war. To ensure that the biscuits remained crisp, they were paced in used tins, such as Billy Tea tins.

According to the Anzac Day.org website, at first the biscuits were called 'Soldiers' Biscuits', but after the landing on Gallipoli, they were renamed ANZAC Biscuits. There is still debate over whether Anzac biscuits as we know them today first originated in New Zealand or Australia but it matters not. They are important to both nations.

So this year, on 25 April after a 4 am start for the Dawn Service, I dug out my handwritten Anzac Biscuit recipe, put on some patriotic music (Powderfinger), donned an apron and created a batch of my favourite national dish.

My Anzac recipe comes from my cousin Tara. Its one thing to buy 'fancy pants cookbooks' containing recipes for beautiful looking dishes ... but for the old favourites I resort to the handwritten, handed down through the generations recipes. When I discover anything homemade that tastes amazing I've got in to a habit of asking the host to write down the recipe. I keep these handwritten gems in a special a notebook. I like the fact that the recipe is written in the hand of the person from whom it was borrowed.

So on Anzac Day, it wasn't just the making of the Anzacs that was 'feel good', it was drawing on a recipe from my cousin. I have to confess, my Anzacs never quiet turn out as good as Tara's, but I like the whole ceremony of making them. I get to create a sweet, patriotic treat and while I read my cousin's handwriting I think of the days I've spent talking all things food (sharing recipes) with her.

So - get writing your favourite recipes out when your friends next comment and start a file of your own.

Going Home ... a good meal is always good, but when you enjoy it surrounded by people who you love - it makes it great!

I honestly believe that food tastes better when its shared with people you love - the whole experience is made even more special when you get to share it in a beautiful location. 

I've just come back from spending two weeks with my family at home on the Sunshine Coast. My family have lived on the Coast for 25 years - and the old adage of home is where the heart is rings true for me. I love going back and feeling that sensation of falling back in to a relaxed beach town groove, enjoying the slower pace and amazing climate. 

When I was growing up, Maroochydore was a seaside town attracting tourists drawn to its amazing beaches and laid back lifestyle. The Coast's foodie scene has really exploded in the last decade, and as the region has developed and grown, the presence of trendy coffee shops and cool wine bars has too. Now locals and visitors can enjoy good food and wine in amazing waterfront locations offering both gastronomic treats AND amazing views!

As I've written previously, I feel lucky to live overseas and be able to travel, but after spending this time back at home, I realise that the simple things in life are often the best. Bright, sunny days, cool ocean breezes and clean, rolling waves are in abundance on The Sunshine Coast. Living in London for two years I have really missed sunshine and fresh air - so the fact that I had a chance to treat myself to these simple pleasures were the key ingredients for a perfect holiday.

From one food extreme to the other ...

Going home also means being able to visit my favourite restaurants. My idea of Sunshine Coast foodie heaven spans both extremes of the gastronomic spectrum. From the simple pleasures of fresh fish and chips from the Mooloolaba Co-op to the gourmet delight of an Asian banquet at the Beautiful Spirit House in Yandina. Without a doubt, in both cases, the beautiful location in which the meals were consumed and the great company that I enjoyed added to the flavour!

The simple things ... Fresh Fish and lemon

A first stop on any holiday is a swim at Mooloolaba Beach followed by a lunch of fish and chips from the Mooloolaba Co-op at The Spit. The reef fish comes in off the trawler fresh each morning and is simply crumbed and served with hot chips and a wedge of juicy lemon.... life doesn't get much better. Best eaten from the packet on the grass along side the beach - the flavour is enhanced when consumed on a clear, sunny day with a light breeze blowing off the sea ... its a key ingredient to my perfect day!

 

I know that The Brits are mad for their battered fish with mushy peas ... but for me there is no competition. Fresh fish and lemon is as good as it gets! After enjoying the feast, any guilt disappears when you take a walk from The Spit around the bay to Mooloolaba Surf Club (strictly with shoes off and the sand under your feet!) ... heaven

And now ... The delectable things .... A Thai treat

So from the simple pleasures of casual fish and chips to a higher end option of modern Thai cuisine in the picturesque setting of Yandina's Spirit House.

The Spirit House is unique - nestled in the grounds of a lush, tropical garden, the restaurant is set at the back of the property and built around a peaceful pond - the walkway to the restaurant from the car park area is framed by a set of beautiful Chinese red antique doors and the pathway winds through a lush garden which towers overhead adding to the sensation that you've stepped away from the Sunshine Coast and in to a retreat in Chiang Mai.

The restaurant's tables are generously spaced and the ambiance is set by a trickling water feature in the pond, the waft of incense floating in the air and relaxing melody of mellow music drifting through the room. Casting your eye over the pond you see Buddhas dispersed through the garden and cheeky water dragon's bathing in the sunshine - the restaurant is so tastefully decorated with Asian antiques collected over many trips to South East Asia such as rice bowls and carved mirrors which add to the restaurant's authenticity.

We celebrated our farewell meal at The Spirit House so treated ourselves to their Banquet. An incredible meal highlighted by soup of coconut with salmon, lemongrass and chilli oil, roasted pork belly served with a citrus caramel sauce and The Spirit House famed deep fried whole snapper with spicy tamarind sauce.

Considering the kitchen team at The Spirit House is staffed by Westerners (farangs) the food was spectacular and rivals anything I've enjoyed in Thailand. I'll definitely be going back on future trips just for that pork belly! 

So now I've returned to London to continue my Kensington Kitchen Adventure. I've come back with a good dose of Vitamin Sunshine and quality time with the people I love. I'm counting down to go back and re-visit my favourite haunts.

Freestyle cooking - a pinch of this ... a dash of that ...

I think I classify myself as a Kitchen freestyler.

Freestyling Definition

A highly experimental method of approaching problems (similar to the notion of "winging it"). Merging elements of pragmatism and daredevil improvisation, freestyling has developed into a unique and controversial school of thought. 

I love reading cook books, I love talking to other passionate cooks about food, I love going to markets and seeing all the fresh produce and love going out to restaurants and getting ideas - but I rarely follow instructions to the letter.

I freestyle and relish the challenge of looking in the fridge and working out what to do with what I have.

Tonight it the challenge was something that called for: sage, chicken, spinach and olives

... and the answer I came up with was 'Chicken, spinach and ricotta deconstructed lasagna' - and it worked! I slow cooked chicken thighs to make a ragu. I stripped the chicken from the bone and then mixed spinach and ricotta to make an alternate layer lasagna - not exactly authentic Italian, but super tasty).

There's a pattern developing here ... 

I am not prescriptive in the kitchen. I always like to interpret recipes and make them work with
a. what I have at hand, and
b. the flavours I prefer

I seem to always add a pinch of this ... a dash of that

It doesn't always work, My husband has taken to labelling my interpretation failures as 'Chicken Surprise' ... or 'Pumpkin Surprise' (the 'surprise' denoting the failure) but I've found that the longer I work at perfecting this cooking business, the successes now outweigh the failures.

Last week I was flicking through Jamie Oliver's Fifteen Minute Meals and came across his 'Chorizo and Squid Greek style couscous salad (p. 166) and I changed it. I'm not a massive fan of cooking squid (I love calamari fresh at the beach from the fish and chip shop or BBQ'd in summertime) so I substituted chicken and it was AMAZING - and healthy!

So here's Jamie's version [annotated with my suggested improvisations] .... 

Chorizo & Squid Greek-Style Couscous Salad

Couscous

4 spring onions

100g baby spinach

1 bunch of fresh mint

1 mug (300g) of couscous

1 lemon

Chorizo & squid

400g baby squid, gutted and cleaned [I substituted Chicken thighs diced]
80g cured chorizo sausage
olive oil
2 mixed-colour peppers [I used green and yellow peppers which I roasted first in the oven, I also added a punnet of roasted grape tomatoes]
1 tbsp runny honey
sherry vinegar [I used red wine vinegar]
2 cloves of garlic
8–10 black olives (stone in) [seeing it was Greek, I used Kalamatas]

Garnishes

50g feta cheese
1 heaped tsp harissa [I omitted the harissa yoghurt]
4 tbsp fat-free natural yoghurt

 

Blitz the trimmed spring onions in the processor with the spinach, most of the top leafy half of the mint and a pinch of salt and pepper until fine . Remove the blade, stir in 1 mug of couscous and 2 mugs of boiling water, put the lid on and leave to sit in the processor • Cut open the squid tubes and, using a regular eating knife, lightly score the inside in 0.5cm crisscrosses, then slice with a sharp knife about 1cm thick, and roughly slice the legs

 

Slice the chorizo and put it into the pan with 2 tablespoons of oil • Deseed,slice and add the peppers, then about 4 minutes later stir in all the squid,the honey and a splash of vinegar • Squash over the unpeeled garlic through a garlic crusher, destone and add the olives and stir for a few more minutes

 

Fluff up the couscous and mix with the juice of ½ a lemon, then tip on to a big board or platter • Spoon the squid, peppers and chorizo over the couscous • Crumble the feta over the top and pick over the remaining mint leaves • In a small bowl, ripple the harissa through the yoghurt and serve everything together, with lemon wedges on the side

Jamie's version is designed to be prepared quickly, but seeing I have no time constraints I freestyled and extended it a little. It took longer than 15 minutes, but it was worth it!

a. I roasted the peppers in the oven first with a punnet of mini grape tomatoes with just a drizzle of olive oil. The tomatoes are really fragile when they're hot - so that they held their shape, I only stirred them through the completed dish just before serving.

b. I used a good quality chorizo that oozed out oily, porky, paprika-y goodness (warning ... this dish aint halal!). Once the chorizo was warmed through and had released the fat, I added the sliced onion and garlic to soak up the chorizo flavour.

c. Then I added the chicken and the kalamata olives.

d. Once the chicken was cooked, I gently stirred through the sliced roasted pepper and the roasted grape tomatoes.

e. Then I added the red wine vinegar and honey

So, freestyling is one thing - but there's a reason Jamie O is a professional and I'm a pretender. I would never have thought to put vinegar or honey in this dish but it really did made it special! The combination of honey/vinegar served to deglaze the pan and create a sticky delicious glaze to the roasted veges and chicken.

So - once it was done, I just spooned it over the prepared cous cous and then crumbled fetta on the top!

We'll definitely be making this 'Jamie Oliver feat Nic' version again!

So many Celebrity Chefs ... is it a case of 'too many cooks spoil the broth' or a blessing for foodies?

At a time where cooking seems to be more 'in vogue' now than ever … I’m intrigued by how many celebrity chefs there are, and how they compete for market share?

It’s interesting – It seems like there is a celebrity chef for all tastes and preferences, but because they are talented in the kitchen, doesn’t always mean that they are marketable or alluring.

I thought the notion of a celebrity chef was a modern phenomenon, but a little bit of internet research revealed the earliest television celebrity chef was Fanny Cradock from the UK. She appeared on UK TV for 20 years between the 1950’s – 1970’s, becoming popular after the publication of her cookbook ‘The Practical Cook’   (note: Fanny Cradock's book title was a little dull…. but on the basis of her name alone, I think she deserves to retain the gong!)

How the world has moved on since.... Bookstore shelves today are overflowing with glossy cook books ‘Taste of France’, ‘Quick Asian stir-fry’, ‘BBQ seafood’, ‘Mexican street food’ – how do you pick?

I look at the overflowing cooking section of my local bookstore and am always amazed at the endless cookbooks on offer from Celebrity Chefs – 'Antonio’s Carluccio’s Italy' … which sits right next to 'Jamie’s Italian' … and beside the recently released (and highly criticised) … 'Nigella’s Italy'. I wonder how many new interpretations can you develop for Tiramisu!

But its not only books. We subscribe to cable television in London – My little slice of heaven is the Cooking Channel (in fact there are 3 cooking channels … even more heaven!) If you were so inclined, you could watch back-to-back cooking programmes all day which results in an opportunity for endless inspiration to beam down in to my Kensington lounge room from far flung locations 

On cold, grey days in London I like to indulge in escapism and watch:

- Luke Nguyen sitting in shorts and a t-shirt on the banks of the Mekong Delta in the Vietnam sunshine dishing up spicy chilli BBQ prawns  …

- or the lovely Donna Hay looking effortlessly chic in shades of white and beige whipping up a fancy posh BBQ for friends from her deck overlooking some beautiful beach in Sydney’s Northern shore...

- and even occasionally, I watch the slightly dreary, but well respected, Delia Smith preaching the process of ‘how one creates the puuuurfect Christmas pudding’ (pronounced in an accent akin to the  Dowager Countess from Downtown Abbey played by Maggie Smith) from her posh mansion house in Suffolk.

It’s a hugely competitive market. But the good news is that budding foodies are the winners … there is a celebrity chef for all tastes and personalities and you can wade through the endless shows (or books) to find one that resonates and inspires you. 

One indulgent day when I was ‘conducting research’ (read: having a lazy indulgent day watching the cooking channel) I watched Rick Stein’s Seafood Odyssey immediately followed by Jamie Oliver’s Fifteen Minute Meals. I was struck by the change in energy and vibe between each of the programmes. Rick, undoubtedly a brilliant and respected chef, paled in contrast to his younger, hip, infectious countryman Jamie.

Jamie bounces in and out of the screen shot basting chicken fillets in a second before quickly crushing spices in his rustic mortar and pestle and then sprinkling them over chopped root veges from a height -  informing everyone he’s ‘whacking everything in the oven’ in his catchy East London accent – The whole process is rustic and you feel like you could recreate it in your own kitchen  – even down to the sound of the tray slapping down on the oven shelf and the door being shut with thud before moving on to whipping up a quick (cheeky) sauce to accompany the meal.

The Energizer Bunny - Jamie Oliver

I can’t help but like Jamie Oliver. He has the energy and joy de vivre of a Labrador pup – he seems to just love his life. He is infectious

In contrast, Rick has that smooth, Oxfordshire accent and quiet way. He seems more suited to reading classics in his home library sitting in a green leather chesterfield armchair in leather slippers and wearing Aramis cologne then being a celebrity chef to me.

So - my conclusion is that its a case of ‘age and stage’ – sometimes you are looking for someone bouncy and enthusiastic to motivate you to whip up a quick dinner at home (cue: Jamie Oliver) and sometimes you want to be schooled in the art of preparing delicious complex seafood bisques and appreciate the sustainable fishing programs so that your ingredients are responsibly sourced (cue: Rick). 

Although – to be fair, I have to say … I am a sucker for a well presented British gentleman who can pull off a mauve Ralph Lauren button up. I think on balance I prefer Jamie’s up tempo cooking style but Rick definitely has Silver Fox appeal!

Meeting Rick Stein at a book signing in Kensington in 2011

I don't do this on purpose ... it just happens - like magic

St Stephen's Green, Dublin

I've noticed that its only when you declare that you are starting a diet, that you truly feel hungry ... and only when you put yourself on a budget, that you find multiple pairs of shoes in your exact size on the sale rack ....

I also discovered when I went back to Dublin last weekend, that its only when you make a pact with yourself to save money and eat healthily (a decision taken for both the benefit of both my budget and my waistline) that I stumble across new extraordinary food experiences ....

I failed in my pact to eat light and healthy ...
I blew my budget and indulged ....
but I had a brilliant time doing it and can't wait to go back!

The best thing about being a foodie is meeting others with the same passion - especially when you travel. I've always found that my interest in food never fails to provide a convenient conversation starter (people are either in to it, or interested in the fact that I am). So naturally when I come to Ireland - renowned for friendly (and talkative) locals, it presented the perfect ingredients for more food inspired travel adventures. I found some great new restaurants and made a friend or two along the way.

Trips to Ireland never disappoint! Dublin has many great restaurants - some specialise in attracting the flocks of foreign tourists who trek there while others specialise in servicing Dublin's community of discerning foodies. This visit, I steered clear of the tourist trap restaurants and sought out the local's favourites.

Grafton Street Mall

Jumping in to a cab on a Saturday night near Landsdowne Road, I asked the driver's advice on where to head to mix with the locals. The brief was simple: a place where we could have a good meal in a relaxed, but upbeat environment, which was located within walking distance to a pub with live music. The cabbie delivered (and, to be honest, seemed chuffed to be able to pass on his recommendations) - Dinner at 'Matt the Thresher' (just off Baggot Street nearby St Stephens Green) and then an after dinner drink and live music at 'Foleys' on Merrion Row.

The cabbie knew his stuff  .... What a treat! Matt the Thresher is a Dublin institution. Voted the Best Seafood Restaurant in 2012 it has an upbeat vibe and a buzzing atmosphere and was filled with locals enjoying great seafood meals paired with crisp white wine. Their creamy seafood chowder was 'off the charts' - thick, wholesome, seafood goodness served with a sweet slice of Irish soda bread - yum.

Gastro Pub - Matt the Thresher

After dinner we took a short walk across to Foleys to partake in the mandatory Dublin experience - a pint of Guinness. Walking in to the conservative (and humbly) decorated pub, you could be forgiven for thinking you'd walked back in time to your Grandma's lounge room during a big family reunion - a warm, inviting room full of happy people chatting and enjoying the music. Foley's was full and not too many foreign accents could be detected, instead the hum of Irish craic and chit chat was evident as the locals requested Irish ballads (and the occasional rebel tune which got the crowd up on their feet).  Got to love their spirit - the Irish like to have fun.

Its noticeable that the pubs in Dublin are filled with multiple generations. At midnight you see oldies still out with their families enjoying a whiskey as the youngsters mingle around them dressed up for a night out. A visit to the pub is a community event, more than it is in Australia. People go to the pub to catch up with their family and mates - its inclusive and adds to the wholesome, happy vibe.

So - I wrote off day 1 and I tried to reinvigorate my 'healthy eating and cost saving' plan the following day ... Although again .... I failed miserably.

The following day marked my 6th wedding anniversary and seeing my husband was working away, I celebrated with my girlfriend Lindsaye who joined me in Dublin. Looking for something light and fresh after our heavy Irish seafood feast the night before, we took off towards Grafton Street (near Trinity College) to try 'Saba'. Located on Clarendon Street this Thai and Vietnamese restaurant was superb. We indulged ordering a 4 course feast. The lovely Irish maitre d was great for a quick quip (labelling us 'Bondi Rescue') and made us feel welcome at our romantic 'anniversary inspired' table for two near the window. He allowed us to replace dessert with a spicy Thai soup and our dinner choices were extensive and great. Noteworthy was the Gingergrass salad (a fresh blend of ruby chard, mint, bean sprouts, ginger, lemongrass and butternut squash and pumpkin seeds) and an amazing fillet of Hake cooked in a banana leaf and topped with a rich red curry sauce. Ireland is an unusual location in which to find such great, authentic Thai food. What a win ... and a memorable Anniversary dinner!

 

The highlight of my anniversary dinner however followed our meal. We meandered back to O'Donoghues Pub on Merrion Row (O'Donoghues dates back to 1789 and famed for being the best known traditional Irish music pub in Dublin - where the popular Irish folk group 'the Dubliners' formed their band). Here we crossed paths with a fellow Irish foodie - endlessly modest, he initially told us that he worked 'in the catering industry' only to expand later as the conversation progressed and confess that he owned one of Dublin's famed restaurant and wine bars - 'Hugo's' on Merrion Row.

So as I said earlier, having an interest in food and cooking always provides a conversation starter - and its surprising where you bump in to other foodies. So, late on a Sunday night in an almost empty Dublin pub when 'the caterer' shared stories of his interest in all things food, my night was made!

Always a fan of throwing caution (and choice) to the wind and letting the Chef chose my meal from their fresh offerings, I couldn't give this opportunity up. We made a lunch date for two for the following day and continued our foodie exploration on a high - lunch at Hugo's before heading home.

The worlds greatest charcuterie board from Hugo's!

Hugo's was a treat! If 'humble sophistication' was a category, Hugo's has achieved it. Its classy design and friendly team ensure guests feel concurrently 'special' and 'at home'. The French inspired menu and quality wine list ensures guests are treated to a special event when eating there. I'll definitely be back - if only to catch up with my new friend 'who's in catering'. 

My new favourite Dublin Restaurant - Hugo's

So on the 3rd day, I succumbed ... I embraced it. We arrived at Hugo's at 1230 to accept a Bellini and then graze on the delicious charcuterie board complemented by a cheeky Chilean Sav Blac ... why fight it. Enjoying good food in exciting new cities warms my heart.

Now I'm back in London, I'm trying to come up with another excuse to return to Dublin to re-visit my new favourite local haunts .... if I ever see that taxi driver again I'll thank him. His recommendation kicked off a 3 day food adventure

'Doing Dublin ... the locals way'

Hola Madrid ... a weekend of gourmet grazing

Enjoying the sunshine in Plaza Mayor

Living in the London for the past two years I have a new appreciation for the sun - I've become a bit enamoured with it, which is a strange sensation for a Queenslander raised in a town where a gloomy day is an exception. Its rarely sunny in London, so I now crave the feel good effect of the sun’s warmth on my skin and the healthy surge I feel after a good dose of vitamin D. Being outside in the sunshine is where I love to be now, so when we landed in Madrid and the Spanish sunshine was already streaming through the aircraft window, I took it as a sign that it was going to be a good week! 

Madrid is a great food destination – but this trip marks an extra special food adventure for me as:

a. Madrid is home to Mercado San Miguel – one of my top 10 favourite food destinations

b. Madrid is always at least 5 degrees warmer than London in winter and infinitely brighter and sunnier;

but best of all, for this visit to Madrid my Bestie Kelly will be flying in from Stockholm to spend a long weekend with me!!

Kelly and I, both in need of an escape from the European winter, planned a girl’s weekend - the agenda for which was as follows:

Walk – Talk – Eat – Drink  

..... what a great location in which to do it!  

Soaking up the Spanish sunshine in Plaza Mayor

We booked a great apartment right on the edge of Plaza Mayor and only 2 blocks from Mercado San Miguel (my favourite Madrid foodie haunt).

Cava and paella for lunch

The Plaza Mayor is surrounded by calles (side streets) leading off the main square that house Tapas bars and restaurants which are usually overflowing with tourists and, more importantly, locals. By paying attention to the cafes housing the locals, all speaking Spanish as they enjoyed their Bocadillos (fresh white rolls overflowing with hot calamari) and beer, we could quickly identify the ‘best’ places in town.

La Campana - Best calamari in Madrid!

Fresh, hot and perfectly cooked

Tapas restaurants are growing in popularity in Australia and the UK but a traditional Spanish tapas experience is something that every foodie needs to have at least once in their life! 

Lots of the Traditional Tapas bars in the old city of Madrid are decorated both inside and out with brightly coloured blue, yellow and white Spanish/Portuguese azulejos (tiles) which decorate the entry and often run along the length of the restaurants’ walls.

Colourful tiles decorating the Tapas Bar

Menus are written in Spanish on mirrors or tiles behind the bar and the restaurants have long polished bars which run the room's length where patrons can lean and rest their drink (a cold beer or glass of wine) which is always served with a small snack of either olives, chorizo (or pork sausage), cheese, bread and oil ... all provided gratis.

I’ve been told that in Spain it’s considered a travesty to serve alcohol without some food! Seriously … this is living!

Tapas Menus

 

I ventured out on the Metro and discovered the neighbourhood of Chuecha which is home to the Mercado San Anton – a high end, three story market containing a gourmet butcher, charcuterie (deli specialising in dressed meats and meat dishes), organic fruit shop, artisan bakery, fish monger and traditional tapas store selling tortilla (Spanish omelette), salted cod fish on toasted bread, chorizo and paella. The other find was a hugely popular coffee bar where, like me, others had escaped from the rain

San Anton is less touristy than Mercado San Miguel. I don't speak Spanish, but at San Anton I found my fluent ‘food language’ came in handy. In my travels, I’ve learned that it doesn’t matter if I don’t speak the local language, I usually find that by using a friendly smile and trying a hello and thank you in the local tongue, combined with some pointing and enthusiastic hand signals, I manage to get by and order successfully. 

At Mercado San Anton, I approached the coffee bar and started with a hesitant ‘hola’ (hello) followed by a shy ‘one café gracias’ (one coffee please)  …. And a big smile when the barista held up the jug of hot milk … I’d successfully ordered my first café con leche! (white coffee)

cafe con leche!

Madrid’s markets are so alluring – The Spaniards have absolutely mastered the art of food presentation - big, airy markets where the walls are lined with good quality food stalls, cafes, sweet stands and wine bars. Patrons move with ease between the stalls with their glass of wine as they collect small taste tests from their desired stand and enjoy them on large stand up share tables located in the centre. The share tables also serve as brilliant advertising vehicles - as other people join you at the table, and you see what they've ordered, you suffer immediate food envy and sneak off to get a portion for yourself! 

There is no pressure to choose the perfect dish or the chef’s signature dish at San Miguel – you can have a little taste of everything … Perfect.

Madrid’s Jamon Bars are another favourite – They are a large scale ‘posh deli’ – they have a large central serving area where you can buy a small beer for 80 cents that is served with a portion of chorizo, or a small ham roll. The outer perimeter of the store is lined with a huge assortment of cured meats they often have whole cured Iberico hams hanging from the roof. Jamon Iberico de bellota is favoured for its unique taste which apparently is developed due to the diet of sweet acorns that the pigs feed on giving a unique flavour to the meat. 

Charcuterie at Mercado San Miguel

Madrid is not a city for vegetarians. The charcuterie contain glass enclosed counters overflowing with small offerings of salamis, Chorizo, Jamon Serrano and other deli items such as mortadella and smoked legs of ham.

When it comes to Madrid’s amazing depth of offerings - Mercado San Miguel remains my favourite. A beautiful steel framed open air market completely surrounded with glass walls which allow the light to flood in resulting in a bright and cheery space. The walls are lined with an assortment of amazing stalls – there is something for everyone at San Miguel.

 

San Miguel by night

 

The mandatory starting point for any visit to San Miguel is the wine bar 'Pinkleton and Wine' where 3 euros buys you a chilled glass of rose wine which you then carry around as your peruse the food stands – In Jane Austen style, I like to ‘take a turn around the room’ discovering the croquette stand for a little deep fried parcels of potato-ey tuna, gorgonzola or ham goodness, followed by some salted codfish or smoked salmon on toasted bread, a serve of garlic prawns, or some flash fried calamari served with a huge wedge of lemon. A portion of paella with seafood or with chorizo – the saffron stained rice gleaming yellow from behind the glass enticing you to ‘try me, try me’

Pinkleton and Wine - Wine Bar

Sometimes the food even comes to you. A stall owner walks around with a mobile stall selling hot wedges of tortilla (Spanish omelette). There is row upon row of olives – heaven…. and they aren’t even bad for you! This place is a treat for anyone who likes olives, they even sell olive kebabs where large olives have been de-seeded and then they are stuffed with big flakes of smoked tuna and sundried tomato ….

 

 

The air is filled with the aromas of grilled prawns, spicy sausage and ripe cheeses. Paprika is dusted on everything - roasted potatoes, grilled octopus ... each of the tapa on offer are all handcrafted and care is evident in the presentation. Its like a savoury tea party! 

And don’t forget sweets – after indulging in the savoury goodness, try something sweet – Churro (doughnut) dipped in hot chocolate – fruit wedges or marshmallow dipped in chocolate, sweetened nuts or be healthy and opt for huge crimson strawberries ... of course they can be ordered fresh .... or for something more decadent, dipped in Belgian chocolate!

This is why San Miguel Market is always one of my Top Ten destinations. There really is something for everyone. 

a visit here is an aerobic workout for my senses ...

First: It’s my sight that’s stimulated as I take in all the offerings from the stalls - the colours … the textures all get my taste buds tingling. I make up my mind; I’m going for the salted cod toast first …

But then … wait – I change my mind as an alluring aroma of garlic wafts past invading the space and I hear the sound of the prawns sizzling on the grill, the popping of the cork on the bottles of bubbly Cava … the buzz of the store owners serving their goods and the appreciative hum of the visitors – the buzz of so many different accents - all sitting together at the share tables enjoying their meals

But it’s the smell of the garlic and chilli infused oil being gently heated before gambas (prawns) are added and grilled in the fragrant oil creating a small bowl of garlicky goodness that captures me.

I order a portion and enjoy the prawns which disappear quickly before I break up the crusty roll and use it to soak up the garlic goodness ….

If you’re in to food, the whole experience touches your heart and then the final sense lingers in your memory … the taste!