Hola Madrid ... a weekend of gourmet grazing

Enjoying the sunshine in Plaza Mayor

Living in the London for the past two years I have a new appreciation for the sun - I've become a bit enamoured with it, which is a strange sensation for a Queenslander raised in a town where a gloomy day is an exception. Its rarely sunny in London, so I now crave the feel good effect of the sun’s warmth on my skin and the healthy surge I feel after a good dose of vitamin D. Being outside in the sunshine is where I love to be now, so when we landed in Madrid and the Spanish sunshine was already streaming through the aircraft window, I took it as a sign that it was going to be a good week! 

Madrid is a great food destination – but this trip marks an extra special food adventure for me as:

a. Madrid is home to Mercado San Miguel – one of my top 10 favourite food destinations

b. Madrid is always at least 5 degrees warmer than London in winter and infinitely brighter and sunnier;

but best of all, for this visit to Madrid my Bestie Kelly will be flying in from Stockholm to spend a long weekend with me!!

Kelly and I, both in need of an escape from the European winter, planned a girl’s weekend - the agenda for which was as follows:

Walk – Talk – Eat – Drink  

..... what a great location in which to do it!  

Soaking up the Spanish sunshine in Plaza Mayor

We booked a great apartment right on the edge of Plaza Mayor and only 2 blocks from Mercado San Miguel (my favourite Madrid foodie haunt).

Cava and paella for lunch

The Plaza Mayor is surrounded by calles (side streets) leading off the main square that house Tapas bars and restaurants which are usually overflowing with tourists and, more importantly, locals. By paying attention to the cafes housing the locals, all speaking Spanish as they enjoyed their Bocadillos (fresh white rolls overflowing with hot calamari) and beer, we could quickly identify the ‘best’ places in town.

La Campana - Best calamari in Madrid!

Fresh, hot and perfectly cooked

Tapas restaurants are growing in popularity in Australia and the UK but a traditional Spanish tapas experience is something that every foodie needs to have at least once in their life! 

Lots of the Traditional Tapas bars in the old city of Madrid are decorated both inside and out with brightly coloured blue, yellow and white Spanish/Portuguese azulejos (tiles) which decorate the entry and often run along the length of the restaurants’ walls.

Colourful tiles decorating the Tapas Bar

Menus are written in Spanish on mirrors or tiles behind the bar and the restaurants have long polished bars which run the room's length where patrons can lean and rest their drink (a cold beer or glass of wine) which is always served with a small snack of either olives, chorizo (or pork sausage), cheese, bread and oil ... all provided gratis.

I’ve been told that in Spain it’s considered a travesty to serve alcohol without some food! Seriously … this is living!

Tapas Menus

 

I ventured out on the Metro and discovered the neighbourhood of Chuecha which is home to the Mercado San Anton – a high end, three story market containing a gourmet butcher, charcuterie (deli specialising in dressed meats and meat dishes), organic fruit shop, artisan bakery, fish monger and traditional tapas store selling tortilla (Spanish omelette), salted cod fish on toasted bread, chorizo and paella. The other find was a hugely popular coffee bar where, like me, others had escaped from the rain

San Anton is less touristy than Mercado San Miguel. I don't speak Spanish, but at San Anton I found my fluent ‘food language’ came in handy. In my travels, I’ve learned that it doesn’t matter if I don’t speak the local language, I usually find that by using a friendly smile and trying a hello and thank you in the local tongue, combined with some pointing and enthusiastic hand signals, I manage to get by and order successfully. 

At Mercado San Anton, I approached the coffee bar and started with a hesitant ‘hola’ (hello) followed by a shy ‘one café gracias’ (one coffee please)  …. And a big smile when the barista held up the jug of hot milk … I’d successfully ordered my first café con leche! (white coffee)

cafe con leche!

Madrid’s markets are so alluring – The Spaniards have absolutely mastered the art of food presentation - big, airy markets where the walls are lined with good quality food stalls, cafes, sweet stands and wine bars. Patrons move with ease between the stalls with their glass of wine as they collect small taste tests from their desired stand and enjoy them on large stand up share tables located in the centre. The share tables also serve as brilliant advertising vehicles - as other people join you at the table, and you see what they've ordered, you suffer immediate food envy and sneak off to get a portion for yourself! 

There is no pressure to choose the perfect dish or the chef’s signature dish at San Miguel – you can have a little taste of everything … Perfect.

Madrid’s Jamon Bars are another favourite – They are a large scale ‘posh deli’ – they have a large central serving area where you can buy a small beer for 80 cents that is served with a portion of chorizo, or a small ham roll. The outer perimeter of the store is lined with a huge assortment of cured meats they often have whole cured Iberico hams hanging from the roof. Jamon Iberico de bellota is favoured for its unique taste which apparently is developed due to the diet of sweet acorns that the pigs feed on giving a unique flavour to the meat. 

Charcuterie at Mercado San Miguel

Madrid is not a city for vegetarians. The charcuterie contain glass enclosed counters overflowing with small offerings of salamis, Chorizo, Jamon Serrano and other deli items such as mortadella and smoked legs of ham.

When it comes to Madrid’s amazing depth of offerings - Mercado San Miguel remains my favourite. A beautiful steel framed open air market completely surrounded with glass walls which allow the light to flood in resulting in a bright and cheery space. The walls are lined with an assortment of amazing stalls – there is something for everyone at San Miguel.

 

San Miguel by night

 

The mandatory starting point for any visit to San Miguel is the wine bar 'Pinkleton and Wine' where 3 euros buys you a chilled glass of rose wine which you then carry around as your peruse the food stands – In Jane Austen style, I like to ‘take a turn around the room’ discovering the croquette stand for a little deep fried parcels of potato-ey tuna, gorgonzola or ham goodness, followed by some salted codfish or smoked salmon on toasted bread, a serve of garlic prawns, or some flash fried calamari served with a huge wedge of lemon. A portion of paella with seafood or with chorizo – the saffron stained rice gleaming yellow from behind the glass enticing you to ‘try me, try me’

Pinkleton and Wine - Wine Bar

Sometimes the food even comes to you. A stall owner walks around with a mobile stall selling hot wedges of tortilla (Spanish omelette). There is row upon row of olives – heaven…. and they aren’t even bad for you! This place is a treat for anyone who likes olives, they even sell olive kebabs where large olives have been de-seeded and then they are stuffed with big flakes of smoked tuna and sundried tomato ….

 

 

The air is filled with the aromas of grilled prawns, spicy sausage and ripe cheeses. Paprika is dusted on everything - roasted potatoes, grilled octopus ... each of the tapa on offer are all handcrafted and care is evident in the presentation. Its like a savoury tea party! 

And don’t forget sweets – after indulging in the savoury goodness, try something sweet – Churro (doughnut) dipped in hot chocolate – fruit wedges or marshmallow dipped in chocolate, sweetened nuts or be healthy and opt for huge crimson strawberries ... of course they can be ordered fresh .... or for something more decadent, dipped in Belgian chocolate!

This is why San Miguel Market is always one of my Top Ten destinations. There really is something for everyone. 

a visit here is an aerobic workout for my senses ...

First: It’s my sight that’s stimulated as I take in all the offerings from the stalls - the colours … the textures all get my taste buds tingling. I make up my mind; I’m going for the salted cod toast first …

But then … wait – I change my mind as an alluring aroma of garlic wafts past invading the space and I hear the sound of the prawns sizzling on the grill, the popping of the cork on the bottles of bubbly Cava … the buzz of the store owners serving their goods and the appreciative hum of the visitors – the buzz of so many different accents - all sitting together at the share tables enjoying their meals

But it’s the smell of the garlic and chilli infused oil being gently heated before gambas (prawns) are added and grilled in the fragrant oil creating a small bowl of garlicky goodness that captures me.

I order a portion and enjoy the prawns which disappear quickly before I break up the crusty roll and use it to soak up the garlic goodness ….

If you’re in to food, the whole experience touches your heart and then the final sense lingers in your memory … the taste!