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| St Stephen's Green, Dublin |
I also discovered when I went back to Dublin last weekend, that its only when you make a pact with yourself to save money and eat healthily (a decision taken for both the benefit of both my budget and my waistline) that I stumble across new extraordinary food experiences ....
I failed in my pact to eat light and healthy ...
I blew my budget and indulged ....
but I had a brilliant time doing it and can't wait to go back!
The best thing about being a foodie is meeting others with the same passion - especially when you travel. I've always found that my interest in food never fails to provide a convenient conversation starter (people are either in to it, or interested in the fact that I am). So naturally when I come to Ireland - renowned for friendly (and talkative) locals, it presented the perfect ingredients for more food inspired travel adventures. I found some great new restaurants and made a friend or two along the way.
Trips to Ireland never disappoint! Dublin has many great restaurants - some specialise in attracting the flocks of foreign tourists who trek there while others specialise in servicing Dublin's community of discerning foodies. This visit, I steered clear of the tourist trap restaurants and sought out the local's favourites.
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| Grafton Street Mall |
Jumping in to a cab on a Saturday night near Landsdowne Road, I asked the driver's advice on where to head to mix with the locals. The brief was simple: a place where we could have a good meal in a relaxed, but upbeat environment, which was located within walking distance to a pub with live music. The cabbie delivered (and, to be honest, seemed chuffed to be able to pass on his recommendations) - Dinner at 'Matt the Thresher' (just off Baggot Street nearby St Stephens Green) and then an after dinner drink and live music at 'Foleys' on Merrion Row.
The cabbie knew his stuff .... What a treat! Matt the Thresher is a Dublin institution. Voted the Best Seafood Restaurant in 2012 it has an upbeat vibe and a buzzing atmosphere and was filled with locals enjoying great seafood meals paired with crisp white wine. Their creamy seafood chowder was 'off the charts' - thick, wholesome, seafood goodness served with a sweet slice of Irish soda bread - yum.
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| Gastro Pub - Matt the Thresher |
After dinner we took a short walk across to Foleys to partake in the mandatory Dublin experience - a pint of Guinness. Walking in to the conservative (and humbly) decorated pub, you could be forgiven for thinking you'd walked back in time to your Grandma's lounge room during a big family reunion - a warm, inviting room full of happy people chatting and enjoying the music. Foley's was full and not too many foreign accents could be detected, instead the hum of Irish craic and chit chat was evident as the locals requested Irish ballads (and the occasional rebel tune which got the crowd up on their feet). Got to love their spirit - the Irish like to have fun.
Its noticeable that the pubs in Dublin are filled with multiple generations. At midnight you see oldies still out with their families enjoying a whiskey as the youngsters mingle around them dressed up for a night out. A visit to the pub is a community event, more than it is in Australia. People go to the pub to catch up with their family and mates - its inclusive and adds to the wholesome, happy vibe.
So - I wrote off day 1 and I tried to reinvigorate my 'healthy eating and cost saving' plan the following day ... Although again .... I failed miserably.
The following day marked my 6th wedding anniversary and seeing my husband was working away, I celebrated with my girlfriend Lindsaye who joined me in Dublin. Looking for something light and fresh after our heavy Irish seafood feast the night before, we took off towards Grafton Street (near Trinity College) to try 'Saba'. Located on Clarendon Street this Thai and Vietnamese restaurant was superb. We indulged ordering a 4 course feast. The lovely Irish maitre d was great for a quick quip (labelling us 'Bondi Rescue') and made us feel welcome at our romantic 'anniversary inspired' table for two near the window. He allowed us to replace dessert with a spicy Thai soup and our dinner choices were extensive and great. Noteworthy was the Gingergrass salad (a fresh blend of ruby chard, mint, bean sprouts, ginger, lemongrass and butternut squash and pumpkin seeds) and an amazing fillet of Hake cooked in a banana leaf and topped with a rich red curry sauce. Ireland is an unusual location in which to find such great, authentic Thai food. What a win ... and a memorable Anniversary dinner!
The highlight of my anniversary dinner however followed our meal. We meandered back to O'Donoghues Pub on Merrion Row (O'Donoghues dates back to 1789 and famed for being the best known traditional Irish music pub in Dublin - where the popular Irish folk group 'the Dubliners' formed their band). Here we crossed paths with a fellow Irish foodie - endlessly modest, he initially told us that he worked 'in the catering industry' only to expand later as the conversation progressed and confess that he owned one of Dublin's famed restaurant and wine bars - 'Hugo's' on Merrion Row.
So as I said earlier, having an interest in food and cooking always provides a conversation starter - and its surprising where you bump in to other foodies. So, late on a Sunday night in an almost empty Dublin pub when 'the caterer' shared stories of his interest in all things food, my night was made!
Always a fan of throwing caution (and choice) to the wind and letting the Chef chose my meal from their fresh offerings, I couldn't give this opportunity up. We made a lunch date for two for the following day and continued our foodie exploration on a high - lunch at Hugo's before heading home.
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| The worlds greatest charcuterie board from Hugo's! |
Hugo's was a treat! If 'humble sophistication' was a category, Hugo's has achieved it. Its classy design and friendly team ensure guests feel concurrently 'special' and 'at home'. The French inspired menu and quality wine list ensures guests are treated to a special event when eating there. I'll definitely be back - if only to catch up with my new friend 'who's in catering'.
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| My new favourite Dublin Restaurant - Hugo's |
So on the 3rd day, I succumbed ... I embraced it. We arrived at Hugo's at 1230 to accept a Bellini and then graze on the delicious charcuterie board complemented by a cheeky Chilean Sav Blac ... why fight it. Enjoying good food in exciting new cities warms my heart.
Now I'm back in London, I'm trying to come up with another excuse to return to Dublin to re-visit my new favourite local haunts .... if I ever see that taxi driver again I'll thank him. His recommendation kicked off a 3 day food adventure
'Doing Dublin ... the locals way'
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